WATER-BASED INKS INCREASE SUSTAINABILITY IN TEXTILE PRINTING

The printing industry is undergoing a transformative shift towards sustainability. For decades, the industry has been associated with mass production, significant resource consumption and environmental challenges. However, recent years have seen an increasing awareness of the need for sustainability. This awareness has led to the adoption of new paradigms that are reshaping the way textiles are produced and handled, including the realm of industrial printing.

These days, sustainability has become a buzz word, often used without any clear definition and perceived to contradict economic success. However, sustainability and economic success are not contradictory. In fact, redirecting the economy and markets means future viability. After all, the world is facing major environmental and social challenges.

Most of our current economic practices have devastating consequences for the natural fundamentals of life. They also mean that our current lifestyles undermine the prosperity of future generations. This goes against the aims of sustainable development. Some examples of this evolution are large-scale deforestation, overfishing and the loss of fertile arable land. All of these show that we are far away from a balance between the three elements of social and economic needs, and the regenerative capacity of the environment. Even worse is the fact that the consequential costs of climate change – as well as the loss of biodiversity alone – could amount to around a quarter of the world’s gross national product by 2050. 

One good example for changing paradigms towards more sustainability is the textile industry. For some years now, it has experienced a significant transformation driven by the urgent need for sustainability. This change is also reflected in various sub-sectors, including the industrial-printing business. The convergence of economic, social and environmental factors is shaping a new era, where sustainability is a fundamental requirement. The textile industry must address these requirements to mitigate the severe consequences of global warming and other environmental challenges.

Sustainability has emerged as a ‘mega trend’, defined as a large transformative global force with far-reaching impacts. It is important to strike a balance between economic prosperity, social justice and environmental protection. This is essential for both current and future generations.

The concept of sustainability has been evolving since 1972. At the United Nations Conference of the Human Environment in Stockholm, the international community first explored the connection between quality of life and environmental quality. In 1987, the term ‘sustainable development’ reached the discussion and is defined as ‘development that meets the needs of the present generation, without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.’ (Brundtland GH, 1987) From then on, in defining sustainability, a focus was put on the balance of economic and social needs of the people in connection with the regenerative capacity of the natural environment.

Sustainability and economic success are not contradictory

Generally, sustainability should not be perceived as a short-distance race, but as a marathon in which governments, the private sector – as well as the civil society – must participate. Zooming in on the private sector, all stakeholders should acknowledge the importance of sustainability being oriented towards the common good. Additionally, it is essential to understand sustainability as a strategic vision towards a viable future.

The textile industry is responsible for 4% of global greenhouse gas emissions

The textile industry is a significant global economic player, contributing 2% to the world’s GDP and employing hundreds of millions of people. However, it also faces critical sustainability challenges. The industry’s rapid evolution post-2005 has led to increased production and consumption. This has been driven by the (ultra-) fast fashion business model and economies’ overall focusing on linear systems with a wasteful and unsustainable resource usage. This linear and fast-fashion approach, as seen for instance in the textile industry, results in massive overproduction, resource depletion and waste generation. It is clear that a new understanding is needed. 

One of the most alarming statistics shows that the textile industry is responsible for 4% of global greenhouse gas emissions, equating to 2.1 billion tonnes. The current trajectory suggests a 50% increase in these emissions by 2030 if drastic changes are not implemented. The waste generated is staggering, with 25% of clothes produced ever being sold. Only 1% of unsold garments are recycled.

In response to these challenges, the industry is gradually shifting towards sustainability. However, the pace is slow and regulators are stepping in to enforce change. New regulations such as the EU Green Claims Directive, Digital Product Passport (DPP) and Extended Producer Responsibility are focusing on production, product design, marketing, waste management and reporting.

Some producers and, increasingly more consumers, are also rethinking approaches. Some brands are even switching to a decrease of fashion seasons and consumers are becoming more environmentally conscious of prolonging the life cycle of textiles. For example, the secondhand market is projected to double in value, reflecting a shift towards more sustainable and circular consumption patterns.

As consumer consciousness regarding environmental issues rises, there is a growing demand for sustainable practices across industries. The textile industry – known for its heavy reliance on water, energy and chemicals – is under significant pressure to adopt eco-friendly practices. This shift is not just a trend but a necessary evolution to mitigate the environmental impact of textile production.

Sustainability in the textile industry extends to the industrial-printing business. The adoption of environmentally friendly practices is crucial, especially in areas such as ink production and usage. Water-based pigment inks are becoming increasingly popular due to their environmental benefits. Unlike solvent-based inks, they contain fewer harmful chemicals, produce less waste and are easier to handle and dispose of responsibly.

Water-based pigment inks are particularly effective on textiles made from natural fibres, such as cotton and linen. These inks offer strong durability, are continuously developed for better performance and comply with stringent environmental regulations.

The environmental benefits of water-based inks are significant

The textile-printing industry is on the brink of a significant shift. Water-based pigment inks are rapidly gaining market share over traditional solvent-based inks. According to the report The Future of Water-based versus Solvent Printing to 2027, published by Smithers in December 2022, the water-based ink market is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 5.6% to 2027. In contrast, the solvent-based ink market is expected to stagnate, with a meagre growth rate of 1.3%. This shift marks a pivotal moment in textile printing and also reflects the industry’s evolving move towards more sustainability and environmental responsibility.

Water-based pigment inks are becoming the preferred choice for digital-textile printing, particularly on natural fibres. These fibres exhibit excellent compatibility with water-based inks due to their inherent properties. Cotton, for example, is porous with a capillary structure that includes open functional hydroxyl groups. These groups absorb water-based inks through hydrogen bonds. This allows for deep penetration and excellent colour saturation.

Once printed, the fabric undergoes heat fixation – a process that ensures the inks’ durability. During this process, water evaporates from the fabric, locking the colouring agents into and onto the fibres. This results in vibrant, long-lasting prints that maintain their quality through washing and wear.

Water-based pigment inks are composed primarily of water, making up 50–80% of their content. This drastically reduces the need for volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that are prevalent in solvent-based inks. The other components include binders (polymer resins) that account for 5–20%, humectants (5–10%), dyeants and pigments (5–15%), surfactants (1–5%) and preservatives (less than 1%).

The environmental benefits of water-based inks are significant. Unlike solvent-based inks, they do not require large amounts of water or aggressive chemicals during production. Additionally, their application in textile printing poses minimal risks to human health and the environment. The lower VOC emissions make them a safer choice, particularly in the European Union (EU), where environmental regulations are becoming increasingly stringent.

The growing popularity of water-based pigment inks is not just a result of their technical superiority, but also the tightening of environmental regulations. Concerns about VOC emissions and the environmental impact of industrial processes are intensifying. Regulatory bodies in North America, Europe and other regions, are pushing for cleaner, more sustainable practices in textile finishing. Water-based inks, with their lower environmental footprint, are more oriented towards these new regulations.

Moreover, the ease of handling and safety during the printing process make water-based inks an attractive option for manufacturers. However, it is important to note that, despite their eco-friendly nature, proper disposal of residual materials is still necessary. Local waste-disposal regulations must be followed to ensure that the environmental benefits are fully realised.

The textile industry is at a crossroads. Sustainability is emerging as a critical driver of change. Industrial printing – a crucial component of textile refinement – is seeing significant advancements of which some also support more eco-friendly practices.

The shift towards water-based inks also offers good printing quality on natural fibres, ensuring that the textiles of tomorrow are both beautiful and sustainable. As the market continues to evolve, a new standard for eco-friendly textile printing is being set.

More generally, the textile industry – embedded in global value chains – must undergo a profound transformation to meet sustainability goals. This requires rethinking every aspect of production – from raw-material extraction to the final product – and fostering collaborative relationships across the industry. As Robert Swan, the polar explorer, famously said, “The greatest threat to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it.” The responsibility lies with every stakeholder in the textile industry to drive this change.